Journeys: "I once spent a year in Philadelphia, I think it was on a Sunday." — W. C. Fields
Despite being a great fan of Mr. Fields, I disagree with him on the merits of what was essentially his home town. Then again, I think he just liked saying “Philadelphia,” much as he liked saying “cockaleekie soup” or “shades of Bacchus.” I’m disappointed that he never heard of Tuckahoe, but I can’t imagine that one getting past the movie censors of the day.
Anyhow, we just came back from a few years days in Philadelphia, and I must say that I find it a great city to visit. In fact, we’ve been doing so for nigh on to fifty years now. In the beginning it was for the history, and we explored all the crooks and nannies around the Independence Hall and the south side, before and after our daughter was born. Then there were the wilderness years of the Villiger and Penn tournaments, away from center of things, aside from staying in the middle of town for early Penn visits and taking the trolley up to the college. (Once we even stayed at what was, if I remember correctly, a half-hospital half-hotel place within walking distance of the school with a lot of wheelchairs by the elevator.) Lately it’s been for long weekends, this latest one driven by the need to visit the Universal exhibit at the Franklin Institute, and then whatever art we could find in the neighborhood. Given that the strip where we stayed has enough museums to sink a battleship, we had come to the right place.
First of all, as W. C. would probably have been happy to inform you, everything major is closed on Wednesdays. Fortunately we have a penchant for digging up minor sites and found the Museum for Art in Wood which is, indeed, a museum of wood art objects. Definitely worth a visit, even if it wasn't Wednesday.
The next day was devoted to the Philadelphia Museum of Art Philadelphia Art Museum (they recently changed the name because the old name was so confusing and the new name just nailed it, which is very Philadelphian of them). This is a spectacular collection worthy of a major city with some great gems. I made it from pre-Renaissance to post-Impressionism, regularly wondering sticky-fingeredly if they would miss some of the smaller pieces no one was paying attention to. In addition to stuff on the wall, there are a lot of recreated rooms, like the Gilded Age one below. I am a big fan of recreated rooms. That is one of my favorite areas of the Met.
The next morning it was off to the Franklin Institute for their Universal exhibit. It was not bad, but it was all about how they do modern stuff (I get it, it’s a science museum) rather than any sort of historical retrospective, as the Disney exhibit a couple of years had been. I enjoyed it, though.
And then, the Barnes.
The Barnes is an interesting place. You can read all about it here if you’re interested: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barnes_Foundation Today it is something of a standard museum, but with walls-full of paintings arranged higgledy-piggledy.
The picture is of probably the biggest display room in the place. Most of the galleries are small, with dozens and dozens of paintings up and down the walls. But they have this great app that allows you to point at a picture and get the info on it. Better still, when you get home, there is an email in your inbox containing all the pix you took a shot of.
The Barnes is a place where you go exploring. You could just walk around and look at everything and pick out the pictures you like and study them more closely. Or you can pick one artist and track that one. Or whatever. It’s a far cry from the usual chronological narratives of most museums, but it’s perfectly acceptable. For me, it was mostly tracking down the Cezannes. Between the Art Museum and the Barnes, there are apparently more Cezannes in Philadelphia than anywhere else in the world. Loving Cezanne more and more as time goes on is probably a cliche. I can stare at his work forever. There are probably plenty of other reasons to go to Philadelphia, but none better than Cezanne in both museums. On the other hand, if you can go through the Barnes and not come out wishing never to see another Renoir, your constitution is stronger than mine. Yes, the landscapes. No, the kewpie dolls. Barnes the man was a big collector of both Cezanne and Renoir. I mean, they do each have their unique color palettes that mark most of their work from across the room and down the hall and around the corner. But other than that? Beats me. There’s also a few nice M/a-o/nets hither and thither. You can learn a lot about art history from the Art Museum. You can learn a lot about what you like at the Barnes. And there you are.
One odd note. We had dinner one night at a restaurant called Maggiano’s. There are a few of these in various cities, and they’re very old-fashioned Italian, but pretty good. The one in Philadelphia has a back room for banquets. As we were sitting there over starters, a troop of teenagers marched out of that back room. Ten, twenty, thirty… I reminisced about large groups of debaters at travel tournaments, and still they poured out. Forty, fifty, sixty… By the time over a hundred clowns had exited the VW, we could no longer hazard a guess of who or why. And then the next thing you knew, another army of them came in from the outside and took over where the first army had decamped. As we were leaving we grabbed a couple of this endless stream of adolescence back and forth and learned that California has a habit of shipping it’s teenagers across the country at Springtime to get a view of how the other half lives. They had started in D.C. and would end up in NYC, lapping up all the historical sights along the way. And, apparently , filling up the back rooms of every restaurant they could find that could fit them. Who knew?
All in all, a nice couple of days. And now it's back to the salt mines and getting ready for States this weekend. Onward!